plane scraper settings

One of the best features of the large scraper plane shown below is the ability to change the angle of the blade for different tasks. At the factory the blade is set so it angles forward about 15 degrees from the vertical position. This results in a smooth cut with short, paper thin shavings. I use this angle for cleaning up machine marks on straight-grained wood. Tilting the blade forward even more will take a deeper cut. This angle will produce long curls, almost like a low-angle plane. You could use this angle for smoothing an uneven surface, like a glued-up tabletop. Setting the blade to a vertical position decreases the depth of the cut. This will produce fine scrapings, almost like sawdust. I use this setting when smoothing wood with highly figured grain.

Side – A:

Twisted Dovetail - A

Side – B:

Twisted Dovetail - B

Putting the twisted dovetail together:

Assembling a Twisted Dovetail

Something like this is what you should end up with:

Twisted Dovetail Joinery

Super simple right? ..just wait till you get started, these plans will come in handy!

Also see the Dovetail Inspiration post

The basic joint: Rails are grooved their full length for the panel; stiles require a stopped grove. Mortises should be as deep as possible for maximum strength; try at least 1.25” deep.

Mortise and Tenon

A strong and easily made joint. You can cut the open mortise and tenon on the tablesaw using a tenoning jig (or just wing it like I do without a jig, just be careful).

Bridle Joint

Matched router bits cut mating profiles in the inside edges of the stiles and rails. Easy to make but not especially strong, it may need reinforcement with a floating tenon or a plywood panel glued into the grooves.

Cope and Stick Joint

A variation on the basic mortise and tenon joint that’s easier to make. Both stiles and rails are grooved their full length for the panel. The tenon is cut with a step, or haunch, on one side that fills the groove in the stiles.

Haunched Tenon Joint

Mortise both stiles and rails, then join the parts with a separate tenon sized to fit. Making this joint means you can size the rails without  having to take into account the extra length of the tenons.

Floating Tenon Joint

A variation on the basic mortise and tenon joint that’s very easy to make. Stiles and rails are grooved their full length, and the tenons are cut to a length equal to the depth of the grooves. A plywood panel glued into the grooves gives the door additional strength.

Stub Tenon Joint

Another variation on the basic joint. The inside edges of the stiles and rails are mitered after the mortise and tenon are cut. The miter makes it easy to mold a continuous profile along the inside edge.

Mitered Mortise and Tenon

Biscuits don’t yield an especially strong joint. Make the rails at least 3” wide to accept #20 biscuits, and use two biscuits for maximum strength. Best with a glued-in plywood panel for added strength.

Biscuit Joint

A miter reinforced with a wood key makes a very strong joint. It’s also fairly easy to make, since you can use a tablesaw for all the cuts. You’ll need a cradle type jig to hold the frame at a 45 degree angle when cutting the key slots. (This is what a lot of art frames and canvas stretchers use for maximum strength and as little movement as posoble).

Reinforced Miter Joint